After three years in Vermont, Conroy moved to Boston to work for Chef Tony Maws at Craigie on Main, absorbing Maw’s fierce discipline and attention to detail. In 2012, Conroy moved to New York to join Alex Stupak’s Empellón Cocina—his first and fortuitous deep-dive into Mexican cuisine. Next, Conroy served as executive chef of the French bistro Little Prince for five years and then helmed Virginia’s, a neighborhood spot in the East Village. In 2018, he opened the project that spoke to his soul, Oxomoco, alongside Chef Justin Bazdarich, in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. There, he’s serves modern, wood-fired Mexican cuisine.
At the heart of Oxomoco is corn, which Conroy sources from small farmers across Mexico and nixtamalizes in house for masa that goes into tortillas, tostadas, and tamales. He’s more interested in staying true to the Mexican pantry than recipes, putting his own interpretation on the cuisine he loves.