This is George Chen. He laughs loudly and mischievously as he recounts his high school years waiting tables at L.A.’s most prominent Chinese restaurants. (The L.A. Times profiled him back in the late 70’s, detailing his talent for describing Chinese food to customers.) He’s opened around 15 restaurants in San Francisco’s Bay Area, including the James Beard Award-nominated Betelnut, and a handful in Shanghai in recent years. Now in San Francisco’s Chinatown, he’s back to stirring up trouble.